Sunday, May 27, 2012

Long Time Between Posts

Although I would like to make an excuse for the time between this post and the last one, I don't have one. Just getting lazy about documenting the process.  I'll try to catch you up.

Not pictured is the work that I did at the bow.  I decided to use self-expanding foam to fill the watertight compartment in from of bulkhead #1.  My plan was to do much like Jeff Hatch did in his PocketShip.  The idea is to create a corridor between the access port and the location where the bow U-bolt will be placed by cutting a piece of 6" PVC to fit.  Then to pour self expanding foam into the bow that will expand around the PVC pipe.

Great idea however cutting a piece of PVC to exactly fit all the angles in 3-dimensions was much harder than I had anticipated.  So I decided to get it very close and then use gorilla tape to seal it with bulkhead #1 and the hull at the bow.  This plan seemed solid.  After all was said and done the PVC was solidly taped at both ends.  I check and rechecked to make sure there would be no leaks.

At this point I mixed a quart of the foam and poured it into the front compartment.  It expanded wonderfully.  More than it should have because it was so hot outside.  But that didn't seem to be a problem.  It didn't completely fill the front bulkhead so I mixed up about half as much and poured that.  That did the trick and the bulkhead compartment overflowed.  No problem there, I would just use a saw to cut away the excess.

After the foam cured I opened the inspection port and to my horror about the bottom 1/3 of the tube was filled with foam.  I must have had a leak somewhere.  Damn!  That foam is tough too.  I chipped away at it with a chisel, pried some out broke up as much as I could but just couldn't seem to get it all.  This was awkward work too.  My arm down to the shoulder in a tube trying to get that foam out.  That's when inspiration hit.  I dragged out my Dremel tool with the flexible shaft extension and put a carving bit on the end.  I fired up the tool and in about 20 minutes I had cut up the foam enough that I could break it out and have access to the bow bolt.  Still not fun.

That's when I came across another problem.  The expanding foam had pushed the bow end of the tube up about 1" from the original center mark.  Some quick calculations on the placement of the bow eye revealed that it shouldn't be an issue.  Although I had dodged the bullet on this one I was starting to have some doubts about my building skills.

I trimmed the foam and epoxied the bow deck in place.  No problems with that, and in retrospective everything is fine.  Just a big scare.

The day had finally come to do the upper deck sides.  This phase seems to be the part that every builder likes.  Lots of changes to the way the boat looks with only a little effort.

Again, I have to say the quality of the kit is fantastic.  Everything fit with the right angles and very few gaps.  Lots of wire stitches to adjust to get it exactly right but in the end no surprises or gotchas.



Above you can see the progress of the cockpit.  Looks great and feels VERY solid.


Here I'm showing how well the kit fits together.  Notice that the upper hull runs from the point of the bow to the transom.  Also note how it ends almost perfectly.  Not bad for a 3 dimensional piece of wood that has to wrap around a bunkheads and twist at the same time.



Here to you can see my angle tool.  It was adjusted to the angle from the plans.  Once the  bulkhead #3 was dropped in place and aligned with the sides the angle just naturally happened.  It astounded me how perfect it was with no adjustments.

The front also came together perfectly.



The seat back frames fit very well.

At this point I've tack welded everything and removed the stitches.  It was a big job but the reward is something that looks a lot more like a boat.


Hours this session: 20
Hours total: 309

Thursday, May 10, 2012

My Review of System Three - WR-LPU Linear Polyurethane Topcoat - Water-borne

Originally submitted at Jamestown Distributors

WR-LPU Topcoat is a two-part, water-borne linear polyurethane enamel. It will provide appearance and performance equal to its solvent-borne counterparts. WR-LPU topcoat comes in clear gloss, clear satin, and 12 popular colors. When cured it is moisture, solvent and fuel resistant. WR-LPU contai...


Good product with the right prep

By Shudoman from Orland, FL on 5/10/2012

 

4out of 5

Pros: Easily to Spray, Very Durable, Easy To Clean

Cons: Runs easily, Limited re-coat time

Best Uses: Large Areas, Small Areas, Detailed Work

Describe Yourself: Casual Do-It-Yourselfer

I've used this product on a boat build before the one that I'm currently working on. On that first build I had good results with the "roll and tip" method. However, I still thought it could look better as there were subtle streaks in the finish.

For the current boat build I used a HVLP sprayer with a 1.5 mm needle. I painted the interior of the boat with this method. The problems that I encountered were easily resolved still annoying.

I prepped the area with the manufactures recommend primer and sanded (a lot). Cleaned with alcohol and masked off the area to be painted.

Setting up the viscosity was easy since it just requires mixing in some clean water. I did a few test sprays to get the flow right and started painting. The first problem that I encountered is that the paint went on with kind of a rough finish and the individual droplets weren't flattening out and merging together very well. This left the surface rough. I live in FL and the temp was right around 80 and the paint was partially drying before it hit the surface. To solve this I got a bucket of ice and put a coil of my spray hose in that. It solved the problem.

Additional problems are that this stuff needs to be sprayed VERY thin with multiple coats or it will run, especially on vertical surfaces. That required sanding and reapplying. Lastly because you're limited to 24 hours between re-coats (without sanding). So if you figure you want 3 coats (at least), and it takes about an hour between coat and add it the time to actually paint the surface then you need to plan accordingly.

After I finished coating the interior I went back over it with a 600 wet sand. The instructions say you can sand up to 1800 for a gloss finish. But this was the interior and I was very happy with the results after the 600.

In the end this product produces a fantastic looking highly durable finish. It's a little finicky and requires a degree of "elbow grease" to get that final great result.

Final Interior View

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